So, I’m back from Cuba. Wow, just wow!!! Without a doubt, it was an epic trip in every way. For the past two weeks, I have been constantly inundated with a flux of emotions and experiences that have left me positively overwhelmed.
Cuba is all that I expected it to be, and so much more. It’s a happy, rewarding place for a traveler, just as I thought it would be when I shared my perspective on traveling to Cuba for the first time. I’ve traveled through twelve provinces and some ten cities with Insight Cuba, in which I had countless encounters with locals. After filling a notebook and my memory card with more than 2,000 pictures and videos, I need some time to let the dust settle, and gather my thoughts.
However, before I get into the nitty gritty of things, I wanted to share one of my favorite nights of my journey through the Caribbean island, that started off in Havana, at the Melia Cohiba Hotel. You can also take it as a Havana by night guide.
My first thought walking into my suite on the sixteenth floor, looking down at the famous Malecón, was to want to walk up and down the charming esplanade that stretches for seven kilometres (five miles) along Havana’s coast. The Malecón is best described as Havana’s soul, a place of tradition that starts from Old Havana and goes up to Vedado neighborhood. This is where the Habaneros stroll their afternoons admiring the various architectural styles along the way, enjoy the sunset or secretly hope to be splattered by the furious waves that occasionally surpass the longstanding seawall.
The Malecón, along with Old Havana, is also what tourists want to see first. I wasn’t any different. This was one tourist trap I was willing to fall into. The trip would eventually take us to some of the most remote areas Cuba has kept under its belt, but to begin with, I wanted to devour Havana, with all its blatant complexities and beguilling contrasts.
I knew just walking down the sea boulevard wouldn’t fully satisfy me. I wanted to cruise it in an old Cuban car, with wind blowing in my hair and that distinct feeling to have suddenly stepped in a bygone era.
I put on my favorite dress fit for the occasion, and requested a convertible, red Gran Car (a state-owned vintage American car). Instead, I got a pink 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air. Needless to say, I was equally charmed.
As soon as I saw it and I hopped on the driver’s seat, I knew I was born in the wrong era.
There was something about the interior, the vintage look and feel that made me gush incessantly. I felt right at home and surprisingly comfortable in a decades old vehicle. The car drove quite well and was in a great condition.
The Cuban driver was as courteous as can be. He took me up and down the boulevard, and around town, and stopped by the Malecón’s westernmost point, by the now-called 1830 Restaurant.
Dating back to the 19th century, the open-air restaurant offers al fresco dining with spectacular views to Havana’s coastline. I had reservations somewhere else, but it sure was a magical location to stop and take some pictures!
By the time the impromptu photo session came to an end, I was starving. It was 10 PM and I was one hour late for my dinner reservation at one of Havana’s most coveted paladares. The term of paladares came about few years ago, when families were finally allowed to run a restaurant in their own homes, a great alternative for visitors to state-run restaurants, and a great way for Cubans to run a family-business. Sadly, no Cuban can ever afford to eat at paladares, unless they earn in CUCs, the currency that is used for tourists, the equivalent in dollars.
As soon as I arrived at La Esperanza, I knew this was no ordinary Cuban home. It was stunning. I was immediately taken by the decor. Not ostentatious in its display, but filled with meaning, precious memories and vintage haunts.
The backyard was particularly charming, away from the prying eyes of the main living room, surrounded by greenery, but with large enough openings to the indoor. I was delightfully impressed to get the best table, although an hour late.
The owner, Hubert, apart from being incredibly funny and considerate, was concerned with anything not being to my liking. Those who know me well know I’m a slow eater, but poor Hubert must have thought I don’t like the food. I did.
In fact the octopus appetizer with shaved parmesan was delicious, as was the grilled eggplant with cheese. But the lobster dish really topped it all. As I was eating, I couldn’t help not feel guilty of what a Cuban student had told me not even two hours before. “We certainly don’t eat lobster every day.”
In a hilarious turn of events, Hubert, I and a third person hopped into a taxi. After a long day of cooking in his home’s kitchen and serving other people, Hubert was in a rush to get somewhere. I, on the other hand, was going to Casa de la Musica in Miramar, a happening party spot in Havana. We parted ways, hoping we would meet again one day.
I don’t even remember what time it was, close to 1 or 2 AM, but suffice it to say it was a short stay at Casa de la Musica. I chose instead to go back to the Malecón and watch the waves crashing into the walls. It was pitch dark, so it was a starry, perfect end of the night; just me, the stars, and my favorite Cuban song.
De Alto Cedro voy para Marcan
Llego a Cueto, voy para Mayar
El cario que te tengo
No te lo puedo negar
Se me sale la babita
Yo no lo puedo evitar
Cuando Juanica y Chan Chan
En el mar cernan arena
Como sacuda el jibe
A Chan Chan le daba pena
Limpia el camino de paja
Que yo me quiero sentar
En aqul tronco que veo
Y as no puedo llegar
De alto Cedro voy para Marcan
Lleg a Cueto voy para Mayar
Disclaimer: My trip to Cuba was sponsored by Insight Cuba, the leading provider of legal people-to-people travel to Cuba. Insight Cuba was the first to bring Americans to Cuba under this provision initiated in 2000. This is my first post in a series of articles, highlighting my time on the Undiscovered Cuba tour. As usual, all opinions are mine. Pero por supuesto!
